India, with almost a billion and a half people, is home to some of the most reckless driving known to humankind.
Incessant honking, the overpowering smell of diesel, and dust billowing behind cars might be the first things a visitor might notice, but there’s far more to safely navigating roads in India than meets the eye.
Here are a few things to consider…
Crossing the street is a game of chicken: Confident pedestrians have a protective aura around them. Cars that might otherwise run them over feel obligated to swerve.
Honking is a courtesy: Lanes in India are mere suggestions. When vehicles approach a pedestrian, or other drivers from behind, they honk to warn them.
What traffic signals? While most drivers obey traffic signals, a good number choose to ignore them, especially those on bikes. Whether you’re driving or crossing the street, just keep a lookout for motorcycles coming around the corner.
A method to the madness: Despite apparent chaos on the roads, there is still a flow to traffic. While drivers might be playing bumper cars in heavy traffic, it still stands to reason that nobody wants to damage their cars or hurt other people. It just takes some getting used to.
Traffic cops: India has traffic police posted at many intersections in major cities. According to locals, however, they are no more than living tolls, looking to extract bribes. If one motions for your vehicle to pull over, you can, in theory, keep driving. They do not carry weapons or have vehicles capable of pursuit.
Animal crossing: Unlike driving in the states, wandering animals are in abundance in India. Cows, monkeys, dogs, or perhaps a goat may find its way into traffic. Keep in mind, the repercussions for hurting a cow in India can be severe.
Before getting behind the wheel of a car in India, take some time to observe the flow of traffic for at least a few days. While the roads may seem like anarchy, that doesn’t mean one has carte blanche while driving. Be cautious but decisive as a driver or pedestrian and leave the rest to good fortune.
Gurdwara siS Ganj: progressivism 500 years before its time
A dense haze hangs above half-completed high rise rooftops. Loose wires and pastel tin roofs peek out between layers of pollution.
As we approach the heart of Delhi, the roads lose their characteristic cracks and street dogs, replaced by men in business attire and teenagers flirting as they make their way home from school.
Our bus comes to a stop at the end of a side road. A busy stone footpath runs alongside a pristine stucco building adorned with gold detailing; the Gurdwara Sis Ganj, a Sikh temple in metropolitan Delhi.
While the site is a popular spot for Sikhs and tourists alike, it stands an important symbol for the Sikh religion.
In 1675, where the temple now stands, a gruesome execution of the ninth Sikh guru, Teg Bahadur, took place. But, despite immense religious persecution, the guru didn't die defending his own religion. Instead, the guru was sentenced to death for defending the freedom of Hindus to practice their religion in a then-Muslim dominated society.
At the time, the penalty for apostasy and refusing conversion was a public death march followed by beheading.
Sikhism, the fifth largest religion in the world, was founded a mere 500 years ago, a short time as far as religious identities in India are concerned.
An extremely progressive religion for its time, Sikhism believes in a genderless god, renounces empty symbolic rituals and superstitions, advocates for religious freedom, and even then, permitted women to conduct services and lead prayer.
Before entering the area surrounding the Gurdwara, one must remove their shoes and socks, and adorn a head cover.
Making our way into the temple, we touch the steps in a sign of respect leading into an expansive, gold-laden room.
Surrounded by practicing Sikhs, a man in a white robe sits atop a gold platform reciting scripture in melodic tones.
Outside, people of all ages take a moment to cleanse themselves in the Gurdwara pool as carp and minnow nibble along countless toes.
Just around the corner on Gurdwara grounds, a major charitable food initiative is in full swing. A large kitchen with vats of masala, industrial cooktops covered in bread, and what looks like a 30 foot cutting board littered with flour and dough. The heat from the kitchen emanates into the hallway.
Each day, the kitchen feeds 15-20,000 mouths from a variety of socio-economic backgrounds. From beggars to affluent members of society, all are welcome to eat and volunteer.